Cleveland is for Food Lovers
by Linda Griffith

No question about it, foodies will have fun here.

We are rich with ethnic treasures: the finest corned beef and pastrami outside of New York, and the best borscht and pierogi anywhere. Cleveland once had more Hungarians than Budapest. There are great schnitzels at Balaton on Shaker Square and the world’s best strudel nearby at Lucy’s Sweet Surrender. Across our town there are kitchens making the best of Vietnam, Cambodia, China, Turkey and Latin America.

But, we also have many contemporary culinary highlights. Paul Minnillo’s Baricelli Inn is on Murray Hill in University Circle. Sophisticated Italian, done by a master. At Shaker Square, is fire, food & drink. Doug Katz produces gems in a tandoor oven. He and Minnillo, along with other fine Cleveland chefs, celebrate local ingredients grown by Ohio farmers.

On the line between Shaker Heights and Beachwood are Moxie and Red. Executive Chef Jonathan Bennett serves ingenious creations at Moxie that often reflect his southern roots. He has made Red the city’s best steakhouse.

The restaurant scene downtown is highlighted by the new kids on East 4th street. Michael and Liz Symons’ Lola is the star by far. From its alabaster glow, you know this is the place. Try lobster corn dogs, beef cheek pierogi, smoked Berkshire pork chops, or variations on veal shank and tongue. Food here is usually a riff on Midwestern traditions. Cory Barrett’s desserts are breathtaking, especially his 6 AM special, including outrageous Maple-Bacon Ice Cream. West 6th Street is the home of Johnny’s Downtown, the unabashed sibling of the more upscale Johnny’s Bar on Fulton. Each serves outstanding Italian foods, with an emphasis on beef and veal. Fulton was the heart of the start of Cleveland’s culinary renaissance. Best gnocchi anywhere, by the way.

The old Tremont neighborhood, just a few minutes from downtown, is hot. Lolita is there; it was Symons’ first restaurant, famous for the small plates and true Neapolitan pizza. Zack Bruell’s Parallax offers spectacular sushi hand rolls and the city’s finest fish. One of the best wine lists, as well. Fahrenheit excels at appetizers and salads and chef-owner Rocco Whalen’s Kobe short ribs are addictive.

Across the river from downtown is the fabled West Side Market. Get a crepe from the espresso guy and just walk around. Nearby on West 25th street is Jonathan Sawyer’s Bar Cento with the city’s best bar food. A few blocks west is Momocho, Eric Williams’ Mod Mex place. Don’t miss the brisket enchiladas, or the cucumber Margaritas.

The stunning Velvet Tango Room is nearby. Not much food, but heavenly cocktails all made from natural juices and house made mixes. Sip your drink to the accompaniment of live music. Seven miles south is Carrie Cerino’s, a big restaurant kept to look like it did in 1964, but the Italian food here is heaven sent. Blue Egg Ravioli and Pasta Carbonara are among its great hits. I’ve hardly started and time’s up. So, welcome to Cleveland. Please come hungry!

Linda Chesney Griffith--Bio

Since 1984 Linda Griffith has been involved in the art and business of food. She writes regularly about food and wine for “Currents,” a widely circulated life style publication in greater Cleveland. She moderates the food and wine forum on Cleveland Live, the major web site for the promotion of Northeastern Ohio, and over the years has had numerous free lance writing assignments on food, wine, travel and books.

She grew up with a passion for cooking and food. In 1979, Cleveland Magazine named her as one of the ten best cooks in northeastern Ohio. In 1984 she left her work as a foundation executive to devote her energy and attention to a career in food. She hosted food and wine programs on two Cleveland radio stations and has cooked hundreds of times on television. For three years she was a restaurant reviewer for a regional magazine and an afternoon television program. She has produced food television, done some restaurant consulting, and since 1986 has taught cooking in her home. Her interest in food has taken her all over the world. Her notebooks and computer are full of food observations and recipes. She is a free lance food and wine writer and is Moderator of Cleveland.com’s Food and Wine Forum since it began.

With her husband, Fred Griffith, she has written six cookbooks. Their newest is Nuts, published by St. Martin’s Press in 2003. It grew out of an investigation into the use of nuts in cusines around the world. It was a finalist for an International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) award. Their earlier books were The Best of the Midwest (Viking, 1990), The New American Farm Cookbook (Viking 1993), Onions Onions Onions (Chapters 1994), Cooking Under Cover (Chapters 1996), and Garlic Garlic Garlic (Houghton Mifflin, 1998). Their onion book was the winner of a James Beard Award.

Linda Griffith was born and raised in Pittsfield, Massachusetts. She attended Miss Hall’s School in Pittsfield and Brandeis University. After marrying and moving to Cleveland, she studied art history at Case Western Reserve University. She has been a staff member of the Cleveland Museum of Art, was Assistant Director of Admissions and Financial Aid at Case Western Reserve University, and for a decade was the director of the Cuyahoga County Hospital Foundation, raising millions of dollars for medical research.

She has two sons and is a step-mother to three. All are married and involved in interesting careers. At last count, there were ten grandchildren. Linda and Fred Griffith live in Pepper Pike, Ohio, with a challenging array of cats and dogs.